Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu’s Arts and Culture
What do Lord Shiva, the Buddha, weapons of war and childbirth have in common? Absolutely nothing. But Thanjavur’s Brihadishwara Temple throws them all together anyway. Historians believe that this 11th-century Chola temple wasn’t designed to be a shrine to the Destroyer of Worlds. Whispers abound that the master architect of the temple, King Rajaraja I, didn’t have a single spiritual bone in his body. Which is why it’s believed that the structure, with its 61m-tall vimana (tower), acted as a watchtower and weapons storage facility. Adding credibility to this theory are the rather arbitrary carvings of warriors scattered around the complex, and one of a rather buxom woman giving birth atop one of the gopuras. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the temple today sees thousands of devotees, all unaware of its bizarre origins. In awe, they offer prayers to the 3.6m-tall shivling, which could have just been the perfect smokescreen. Thanjavur shone under the rule of the Cholas, before being taken over by the Nayaks and, in the 17th century, the Marathas. All of these dynasties played an important role in making Thanjavur the cultural epicenter of its time. It was during the Maratha rule that many of its arts found an outlet, thanks to Serfoji II, possibly the land’s most beloved ruler.
Sambaji Rajah Bhonsle, a direct descendant of Serfoji II, is perhaps the most humble royal you will encounter. He makes Tanjore paintings and resides in a neglected portion of the Thanjavur Royal Palace Complex, the family having bequeathed most of its land to the government. Step in and gasp as you take in the splashes of gold and red on wooden frames throughout the length of a cavernous corridor. A rotund Krishna peeks out at you, while a formidable Shiva strikes 108 Bharatanatyam poses. Bhonsle is only keeping ancient art form alive, one he fears might soon die out. Making a Tanjore painting is no piece of cake. Tamarind seed paste and limestone is applied, layer upon layer, onto a cloth base. Once this is dry, he draws divine beings, after which gems are inlaid to make a pattern. The detailing of form and face is followed by the laying of 22-carat gold foil. Herbal colors are then filled in to bring the image to life.
Where to Eat?
Head to Vasanta Bhavan, beside the old bus stand, for a traditional south Indian breakfast. Its best-sellers are the masala dosa and the ghee roast (also a dosa). The eatery also features north Indian and ‘chindian’ dinner favorites (00-91-4362-233266; 1338, South Rampart, Old Bus Stand; 6am – 11pm; dosas from ` 40). a short walk away is the legendary Anbu Milk Bar, a tiny stall with only four items on its menu. come here in the morning for a glass of bombay lassi, and return at night for the freshly-made palm sugar milk and badam milk, topped off with a dollop of cream (Old Bus Stand; 10am – 12am; from ` 20). Hotel Gnanam’s restaurant, Sahana, serves what is possibly the best south Indian meal in town. The thali comes with rice, sambhar, vathal kuzhambu (berry curry), rasam, poriyal (dry veggies) and kootu (gravy veggies), among a dozen other items.
Where to Stay?
Hotel Gnanam: located in the heart of thanjavur, this hotel is a stone’s throw away from major landmarks. Choose from the deluxe, Mini or executive suites.
Sangam Hotel: this modern hotel comes with 54 swanky rooms, some of which offer lovely views of the brihadishwara temple.
Tanjore Hi: this heritage boutique hotel is easily the city’s prettiest address. The restored 1920s colonial house merges the old with quirky elements like ceiling-to-floor collages on the walls.
Where to Shop?
Poompuhar, run by the tamil nadu Government, sells handicrafts from thanjavur and around. Pick up the region’s popular thalaiyatti bommai, or bobblehead dolls.
Alex Sadler loves to travel and write his journey during his free time. He’s computer programmer by profession and shares his travel tips and journeys at vacation-now.com.